The "lower" "not auto" "manual setting" Fremer used in the G measures worse. This "auto" mode is the one that Fremer says measures better. The guy in the video above claims that the auto mode uses higher torque in the beginning of the operation than lowers it. The SL-1200G has an "auto" mode in which torque is automatically adjusted. I was discussing the torque adjustment in other thread. Humble GR owner here interested in the thread. One of the most neutral (and thus musical) turntables I've heard. Audioasylum seems to no longer have the image on their site though, so you'll have to make do with the google image.Īnyway, the result was spectacular- very locked in imaging, like you get with a master tape. It appears that you can't upload images to this site, but if you google 'Technics Triplanar' the first hit is a photo of the machine on which I installed the arm.
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I guess 'impossible' means it might take a little bit longer The 12" Triplanar comes to mind, but I was told over and over again that a 12" arm was impossible on the machine. But I was curious what would happen if you put a state of the art arm on the table. The arm OTOH isn't bad at all and is better than many high end arms. The platter pad really is nothing special and does not do the 'table justice, since a platter pad is supposed to control resonance in the vinyl caused by the tracking of the stylus. IMO the weak points are the platter pad and tonearm. This machine is from the ground up a new design, and nothing like the old SL1200s you see on craigslist except for the appearance. It is one of the most speed stable turntables made anywhere and has a very dead and rigid plinth that is damped by several damping techniques.A dead and rigid plinth is a key ingredient of a neutral uncolored turntable. The SL1200G has to have a lot of high end turntable manufacturers shaking in their boots. If I ever won the lottery, the SP10R would definitely be on the list The SME 309 change is simply because I have the arm already, and bought the mounting plate before I’d thought through the possible voided guarantee issue (very stupid of me!). That’s very true about the new Technics’ arm cost: But on these new decks I honestly think it’d be making a change for the sake of making a change, rather than it being needed. Just externalising them made a difference. The situation is different with the original 1200s whose vibrations from the transformer could & did muddy the sound. Modern SMPSs can be superb, and I trust Technics and their decades of accumulated knowledge, rather than a tiny company making money from selling mods, to not skimp on that part of the design for their 1200 flagship. To be honest, the psu on the 1200G is the last thing I’d change. One also has to buy short right-angled allen and torq keys, and even then it’s quite cramped, but it can be done easily enough.
#Garrard zero 100 manual level will not stay on series#
Swivelling the series 309/IV/V arm mounting base around 180 degrees can help a little, so adjustments are made from the opposite side of the base instead. Would it be a definate improvement, or merely a change? Has anyone else changed the arm already?Ĭlick to expand.The only problem with fitting SMEs along with the appropriate mounting plates on all 1200s, and something irritatingly never mentioned in the advertising for these arm-plates, is that the standard SME adjustment tools will not fit. However the stock arm performs so well I’m now questioning whether I really want to risk voiding the guarantee by opening the deck up and fitting the SME arm. I did purchase an Ammonite-Audio (beautifully) CNC machined SME arm-plate, as I have an SME 309 arm here I was using on a Garrard 301. It would be a PITA if I had to send it back to get that recalibrated. the lowest point? I’d be much obliged if anyone else with a 1200G could check this at some point.
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I was surprised to find that on the arm height adjustment ring, one can turn it below 0 to approximately what would be -1, if the ring showed a negative scale too.
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I’ve very pleased with the deck, but not quite sure if my tonearm has been factory adjusted correctly or not. The build quality on both is truly superb! Initially got the GR model, but almost immediately kept wondering if I should have gone for the more pricier unit (I intend this to be my last deck), so a week later I exchanged it for the G! To be frank, I’m honestly not 100% sure I could tell any huge audible difference between the two if I didn’t know which was playing (though the bass on the GR I recall was a tad exuberant compared to the G) but definitely love the 10mm thick aluminium top-plate and that brass topped platter of the G. To get the ball rolling, I recently bought a SL1200G. As more and more people are buying these superb decks now, thought it might be a good time to start a sort of ‘general questions’ thread.